PAVLOVA

by Ed Halmagyi

Instructions

There’s not many things on which Australians and New Zealanders disagree. Even less on which we might come to blows.

Other than the rugby pitch (their turf), or the cricket field (our turf, just), or the netball court (an even split), we consider each other as nations to be more than just neighbours. We’re family. Even if that does mean we get lumped with Russell Crowe!

Indeed if there were one matter on which a Trans-Tasman brouhaha might emerge, then is has nothing to do with sport, and everything to do with ballerinas. Well, one ballerina in particular, and she’s not even alive to mediate.

Anna Pavlova.

As the prima ballerina assoluta of the Imperial Russian Ballet, she toured Australia and New Zealand several times in the 1920’s and 1930’s. That a meringue dessert was confected in her honour is not in question. The billowing white pillow upon which cream and fruit would rest was intended to channel the tutu she wore while dancing her signature piece – The Dying Swan.

But as for who created it, well, in that matter there is less concord. The idea of a baked meringue with fruit and cream has existed in French and Italian cuisine since the 18th century. But as a homage to Pavlova? Well…….

New Zealand food and cultural historians claim that during her 1926 tour to Wellington the dessert was presented to the ballerina to celebrate her performance the previous evening. There may be some truth to claim, but no written evidence in the form of contemporary recipes, newspaper reports, or even a menu card has ever been found.

A later tour in 1934 brought the ballet to Perth where chef Bert Sachse presented the dessert to Pavlova at the Esplanade Hotel. There are menus, Sachse’s recipe, and even a charming photo of the chef and his concoction that appeared in The West Australian newspaper.

So as to the dish’s provenance? Neither Australians nor New Zealanders can rightly claim to have invented the dish – its history predates European arrival here. But in its modern conceit, as the reference to Pavlova’s tutu?

In that specific matter, only Australia has the evidence required to make a rightful claim.

So, sorry bro’s. You can have the Bledisloe, but the pav’s staying with us!
Pavolova roll with berries and passionfruit