OYSTERS

by Ed Halmagyi

Instructions

The late and ever glamorous Lady Diana once attended a State Banquet at the Quay D’Orsay in Paris. She and Prince Charles were the personal guests of the socialist French President François Mitterrand.

After light conversation and glasses of excellent champagne, the guests were seated for dinner. When presented with the first course, natural oysters with herb sorbet, she politely declined. The President was mortified and asked the young Princess if she did not care for seafood.

Lady Diana, in her inimitable way, replied, “My dear Monsieur President, I prefer my food dead, not wounded.”

As an oyster aficionado, I struggle to understand her aversion to a freshly-shucked sea pearl. Tender, pliable and briney-fresh, oysters are the perfect distillation of all that is seafood. As the Japanese say, “fish is the only thing we call ‘off’ when it smells like what it is.” Oysters capture the moment that you first enter the waves.

Still not having a bar of it? Well, you’re not alone.

Years of experience in some of the best restaurants in the world has taught me that while freshly-shucked oysters are still a little too alive for many consumers, the cooked variety can be a perfect middle ground.

Traditionally cooked oysters can in several simple styles – cheesy Mornay, bacony Kilpatrick, herby Rockefeller – but little thought is given to them beyond this. It’s a shame, because oysters are well-suited to cooking and can match with a variety of textures and flavours, provided a few simple rules are followed.

As with so many elements of the kitchen, less is more. Don’t mask the flavour of the oyster in a headlong rush to introduce a new perfume. The modern vogue to slather oysters in a powerful Thai nahm jim dressing is a prime example. Redolent with fish sauce, lime and soy, the dressing renders the oyster invisible. So elect for a lighter hand with flavour, as well as a reduced cooking time for better texture.

To create a new complement for oysters it is important to start with the clear aim of highlighting the oyster’s natural characteristics, not replacing them. Oilier ingredients, such as butter and nuts accentuate the richness of the shellfish, while a smattering of acidic tastes like lemon and vinegar creates a framework within which to appreciate that inherent fullness. Add a splash of spice or herb for a light perfume and the job is done. Simple and perfect.

And if your adventurous side emerges, naturally or after a few glasses of that delicious French champagne, those same flavours you have cooked onto the oysters can equally be add to a raw one. Maybe? Maybe…..
Baked oysters with pistachios, lime and paprika