Instructions
Milk is an amazing thing. It can be made into so many unique foods, each with its own extraordinary flavour.
But to my mind, nothing tastes so perfectly of pure milk as mascarpone, the northern Italian cream cheese. It’s milkier than milk, and creamier than cream.
But how is this possible?
Well, a lot has to do with the way mascarpone is made. For starters mascarpone is based on cultured milk. This infusion of beneficial bacteria is much like the way buttermilk, live yoghurt and cheeses are produced. The effect of the microbes is to increase the lactic acid which adds to the soft sourness and the tingly sensation we associate with dairy.
Depending on the manufacturer, mascarpone may be made from crème fraiche or a blend of milk and buttermilk. To this a small amount of tartaric acid is added. This denatures and thickens the cream, transforming it into the rich, unctuous concoction that is mascarpone.
You can make your own mascarpone fairly easily. Mix 600ml pure cream with 100ml cultured buttermilk and leave this on the kitchen bench overnight. Next day, warm it to blood temperature and stir in 2 level teaspoons of tartaric acid. Make sure it’s real tartaric acid and not cream of tartar. Next day you have mascarpone.
If you are making your own, you can infuse it with cinnamon, vanilla or citrus to make a great dessert. For savoury foods, try infusing it with curry leaves, juniper or even anchovies.
Using mascarpone is incredibly easy. It is the basis of classic Italian tiramisu, and often features in risotto. Blend it with whiskey-soaked biscuits to make a delicious tart, or bake it gently with eggs and sugar to make a luscious crème brulee.
Mascarpone first emerged around Milan in the 18th century and helped to define northern Italian food. Its pure flavour of milk, the essence of farm-fresh dairy, can help you to define your own culinary traditions.
Tartlette of Christmas pudding, marscapone and chocolate with summer berries