TUNA

by Ed Halmagyi

Instructions

After I dropped out of uni in the early 90’s I went to the Solomon Islands to work on a community development project. We built schools and water catchment facilities, then conducted malaria prevention and dental programmes.

There are no shops on most of the islands so you eat what you can catch. As winter ended the yellowfin tuna season started and we lived like kings. Tuna are accomplished hunters who home in on schools of smaller fish. Meanwhile the reef sharks sense there’s tuna to be had and soon they’re in a frenzy as well. It’s not the right moment to tip your canoe!

The rewards for landing live tuna were plentiful, even though sometimes a shark would manage to gnaw off a chunk first. Once you’ve tasted perfectly fresh tuna, so rich in oil that it runs down your chin, you’ll finally comprehend Japan’s obsession with the art of sashimi.

The cooler currents of late Winter and early Spring provide predatory tuna with ample feeding opportunities. As a result these fish are at their seasonal prime.

At this time of the year look for yellowfin tuna out of South Australia and southern N.S.W., particularly from Ulladulla and Brown’s Mountain.

Really fresh tuna doesn’t smell like fish at all. That fishy aroma develops as the tuna ages. So to make sure you’re getting perfect fish, buy tuna that smells like the sea, not like a fish shop!

It’s very easy to overcook tuna. Like all game fish it can become dry and fibrous when exposed to heat. Hence most chefs will recommend serving tuna rare. Sear the tuna steak on both sides over a very hot grill, and then rest for a minute or so before serving. The oily characteristic of tuna also means it pairs well with spicy and acidic flavours. Think pepper, lemon, vinegar and chilli.
Seared yellowfin tuna with fennel and pickled pepper